6 volt solar panel linking

If you are going to play with converting electricity, you need to think of generation and loads in watts, not amps. Amps are best used for wire and fuse sizing. If a load is listed in amperage, convert it to watts. Voltage times amperage, equals wattage.

If you have two 6 volt 10 watt panels, wiring them in parallel will give 20 watts at 6 volt.  Wiring them in series will give 10 watts at 12 volts.

If you need the amperage, divide the watts by the volts.  The parallel panels would be 20 watts divided by 6 volts, equals 3.33 amps. The series panels would be 10 watts divided by 12 volts, equals 0.83 amps.

You might think about telling us what you have and what you are trying to do. If, for example, you have a couple of 6 V 150 microamp panels (0.9 watts) and you are trying to tie them together to charge a 12v car battery, that would be a waste of time and money.

Max:

The first thing I would suggest is to read the basics/beginners guide to solar located in the how-to-section, if you haven’t already done so. Here is a direct link to it.
http://howto.altenergystore.com/The-Basics/Beginners-Guide-to-Solar-and-Wind-Generated-Electricity/a19/

One of the links within it, will be to a load calculation sheet. Print it out and use it.
After you determine what loads you are going to have on the system (in watt hours) as daily loads with no one there, daily loads when occupied, and then the emergency refridgerator load, will then be able to size your battery bank. 

After you finalize the size of the battery bank, then you can size the solar panels accordingly.

Your comment about getting the batteries from work, scares me. I looked at the Interstate deep cycle flooded battery line and did not see a 232 AH battery there.  If they are not a deep cycle, you do not want to use them for solar service, even if you get them cheap.

I do not like to plan on cycling a deep cycle battery below 50 percent, except on a rare  emergency basis. Your two new 232 AH batteries will only have 232ah total, when wired as 12v. They will only provide 116AH under my 50 percent criteria. 116 AH (at 12v) is 1392wh, so it will give you less than 3 hours of heater time assuming that the heater is running at the 500 w setting.  Depending on the wattage of your lights, you may be down to only a couple of hours.  Or looking at it another way, if you fully load that 1250 watt inverter, you will only have an hour and 7 minutes of running time.

So, I believe that even your new battery bank will be undersized. You have been getting away the loads on your current batteries, because of the trickle charger where you are filling the batteries 24/7. When you go to solar only, all the power comes in during the day. There is no new power until tomorrow. 

There is a device called a kill-a-watt meter that you can use to measure the electrical consumption of your heater or fridge to get a handle on typical daily usage. Some people have difficulty estimating how much they actually run.  It retails at about $35 and can be found for less.

Ken